Ensemble - Cape Coat and Dress

Two-piece wool tweed cape/coat street ensemble. a) Cape coat of wool tweed in three shades of plum. Long, single-breasted coat with cape attached at shoulders. Four button closure with alternating bound buttonholes and supplemented with two hook & eyes. Two small double welt pockets on yoke and two larger double welt pockets at waistline. Coat dress portion is tailored at waistline with 3/4 length sleeves. Small turndown collar. Lined in rust brown colored silk faille. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / Original" b) Straight skirt of matching wool tweed. Unlined. Zipper closure.
Date: 1947
Creator: Adrian, 1903-1959
System: The UNT Digital Library

Skirt Suit

Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. Excellent example of chiaroscuro work. A) Jacket with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures. A band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk. At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Adrian / Original" Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Frost Bros. / San Antonio". B) Straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations. No labels, possibly removed.
Date: 1946
Creator: Adrian, 1903-1959
System: The UNT Digital Library

Skirt Suit

Navy daytime tailored two-piece suit in British Samek wool. a) Suit jacket of navy British Samek wool. Center front opening with three circular, blue plastic buttons; welted buttonholes button suit jacket. Padded shoulders. Two patch pockets. Notched collar with squared shoulder yoke with matching button attached to square insert. Lined in eggplant crepe. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material" Tag above designer's label: "A. Herod, Sr." b) Slim straight skirt of navy British Samek wool. Folded waistband of same. Center back zipper with snap and 4 hook and eyes on waistband. Lined in navy blue silk. Tag on inside waistband: "A. Herod, Sr."
Date: 1947
Creator: Adrian, 1903-1959
System: The UNT Digital Library

Evening Gown

Evening gown of black crepe with maroon sequin trim. Full-length. Bodice of thin net covered with swirling pattern of magenta purple sequins. Rounded neckline. Short sleeves with shoulder pads. Empire waist has set-in waistband with added butterfly-shaped panel below set-in panel on front. Flared skirt, bias-cut. Left side opening (closure missing); bodice has center front opening with 5 snaps and hook & eye at neckline. Unlined. Designer's label at inside waist: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" "Made in Paris" label sewn below designer's label.
Date: 1946
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristobal, 1895-1972
System: The UNT Digital Library

Hat

Hat of black straw with small crown worn forward on head with under-chin strap. Brim is visor shaped in front and long on back; very narrow sides. Trimmed with triple bow trim on one side and pink feathers on the other. Designer's label: "Bernice / Charles / 711 Fifth Ave. / New York"
Date: 1945
Creator: Charles, Bernice
System: The UNT Digital Library

Blouse

Blouse of navy blue wool. Wide, boat neckline with inner wide white pique lining which folds over dark plum(?) facing of wool collar, to become shawl collar. Double breasted, with three pair of circular black buttons and single hook-and-eye at waist. Sleeveless, with slight "cap" effect caused by wide shoulders darting, and deep diagonal line of sides. Raised waist and flaring peplum. Unlined. Inner structure augmented with satin ribbons sewn to help hold structure of bodice. Designer's label at inside lower left seam: "Renée Collard / Paris" Retailer's label overlapping lower edge of designer's label: "Janga / 98 Faubg St Honoré Paris"
Date: 1940
Creator: Collard, Renee
System: The UNT Digital Library

Hat

Hat of gray fur felt. The derby style hat is made of a single piece of stiffened gray fur felt. The low, domed crown is encircled near the base by a band of black grosgrain ribbon, with a bow at back. The 2" wide brim curves upwards at edges. Hat is unlined, and has a band of black grosgrain ribbon inside at base of crown. Attached to the inner ribbon is a small plastic comb to secure the hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner ribbon: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y."
Date: 1949/1950
Creator: Daché, Lilly, 1898-1989
System: The UNT Digital Library

Pumps

Pumps of dark brown suede and brown alligator. Designed with a rounded toe, the uppers are of dark brown suede with toe-cap and heels of brown alligator. The modified Cuban heel is covered with brown alligator. Designer's stamp in left shoe: "Delman / Made entirely by hand" Retailer's stamp in right shoe: "Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas" Handwritten note in each shoe: "2P67046 54 / 8a"
Date: 1940
Creator: Delman, Herman
System: The UNT Digital Library

Sling-Back Evening Pumps

Pair of heeled sling-back evening pumps of silvered and painted leather. Designed with somewhat sharply rounded open toes, the shoes have an all-over design of yellow hand-painted "scales" on the silvered leather that look as if large silver scrolls are applied over a ground of yellow/golden scales. The vamp has a central hole surrounded by a ring of 8 applied silvered leather discs with a cluster of hand-painted yellow dots at center of each. The edge of vamp is cut in a gentle "pointed arch" shape. Ankle strap of plain silvered leather, secured with oval gilt metal buckle set with tiny rhinestones. The 2 1/4" boulevard heel is covered with the same hand-painted silvered leather as the rest of the shoe. Designer's stamp in right shoe: "Delman / New York Chicago London Paris" Retailer's stamp in left shoe: "Bergdorf / Goodman" Handwritten in each shoe: "B80784 / S9474Sx / 5 vN / 821"
Date: 1940
Creator: Delman, Herman
System: The UNT Digital Library

Ensemble - Blouse, Skirt, Belt, Purse

Cocktail or dinner dress ensemble of pale blue/green satin brocade with design of acanthus and thistle/leaf in dark green and golden yellow, consisting of: A) Blouse. Short sleeves with 2" rolled cuffs and shawl collar. Center front opening has 4 self-covered buttons above waist, and 6 hook-and-loops below waist on peplum for securing into skirt. Fitted seaming and pleats centered on waist. Unlined. Label inside top at left side seam: "Made in France / Christian Dior / Paris" and stamped on label: "05456" B) Skirt of matching brocade. The mid-length skirt is double box pleated from narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook-and-eyes at waistband. Unlined. C) Petticoat of ivory moiré satin. Mid-length, with narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at waistband. E) Belt of green silk-covered ivory leather with rectangular silk-covered buckle. (not in photographs) D) Purse of green silk.
Date: 1949
Creator: Dior, Christian
System: The UNT Digital Library

Skirt Suit

Two-piece suit of beige worsted wool gabardine of tropical weight. The jacket is medium-length and semi-fitted, with a roll collar having wide pointed revers. It has tuck-over wide padded shoulders and long, narrow sleeves. There are slight vertical gathers at waistline, starting at sides and running around back. The center front opening has three large plated metal buttons shaped as trumpet flowers. The jacket is lined in peach crepe. The matching skirt is mid-length, with a narrow waistband that laps over and secures with two hook-and-eye closures. Skirt has four inverted pleats beginning 41.5 cm below waistband and extending down 30 cm. to bottom of skirt, two at front, two at back. Side zipper closure, top of which is where waistband secures. Skirt is unlined, and has no labels. There are three labels in the coat: Designer's label at inside left: "Forstmann / 100% Virgin Wool / © F.W. Co." Retailer's label at inside back collar: "Sanger's / Dallas" Coat and Suit Industry National Recovery Board label inside right side at seam "135776".
Date: 1941/1945
Creator: Forstmann
System: The UNT Digital Library

Shoes

Shoes of brown snakeskin and green reptile. Designed with a very slightly pointed toe, the peep-toe toe-box is made of two pieces, the inner piece of brown snakeskin, the outer piece of green reptile, both edged with plaited border of two leathers, the snakeskin overlapping the reptile, forming a point. The toe with thick platform, the sides of which with three horizontal bands of leathers, green lower reptile, center band of plaited leathers, the upper of brown reptile. Open sides, the sling back formed with openwork interlaced leathers, secured with small gilt metal rectangular buckle. The set-in French high heel is covered in brown snakeskin, with vertical plaited band of colored reptile leather running vertically along back edge. Stamped in both shoes: "ce qui se porte" / Gainsbourough / 1128 Lincoln Road / Miami Beach, FLA.
Date: 1946
Creator: Gainsborough Ltd.
System: The UNT Digital Library

Shoes

Black suede sling back pump with open toe and spike heel. Size 5 1/2 B Measurements: L: 20.5 cm. W: 7.5 cm. H: 13 cm. Heel: 8 cm, 3 1/8 inches "andrew geller / exquisite footwear"
Date: 1940~
Creator: Geller, Andrew
System: The UNT Digital Library

Hat

Open crown hat with olive green straw encircling front visor and headband. Ochre velvet draped over visor decorated with small white, bell-shaped flowers. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Kenneth Hopkins Original"
Date: 1948
Creator: Hopkins, Kenneth
System: The UNT Digital Library

Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Skirt suit of beige linen with bands of beige silk embroidered fan-shapes.
Date: 1949
Creator: Irene
System: The UNT Digital Library

Hat

Hat of natural straw in boater style with tiny brim and very shallow crown.
Date: 1947
Creator: Irene of New York
System: The UNT Digital Library

Calotte Hat

Calotte style hat of black velvet and felt. Rim of velvet bows surrounding pointed cap supported by scalloped brim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Madame Suzy / 5, Rue de la Paix / Paris" Label below designer's label: "Made in France"
Date: 1941
Creator: Madame Suzy
System: The UNT Digital Library

Hat

Hat of dark brown felt. Wired, rolled brim with one black and one light brown pom pom as trim. Hat has two wired triangular shaped extensions at left and right rim for securing hat to head as well as elastic band. Designer's label on inside hat band: "Madame Suzy / 5, Rue de la Paix / Paris"
Date: 1947
Creator: Madame Suzy
System: The UNT Digital Library

Hat

Afternoon hat of crushed and draped velvet. Brim of dark purple, crown of wine. Purple brim extends to point at side. Self cording trim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Lined in wine colored silk. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Marguerite & Leonie / 4 . Rue des Carucines" Label attached below designer's label: "Made in France"
Date: 1940
Creator: Marguerite & Leonie
System: The UNT Digital Library

Hat

Hat in modified sailor style of navy blue straw. Medium height crown is domed at top and has straight front edge and rounded back edge. Around the crown is a wide band of black grosgrain ribbon with flat bow at back. Brim is circular, set off-center so more brim is at front of hat than back. Hat is unlined, with black grosgrain band around inside of crown. Affixed at inside back of hat is small puff of black netting. Affixed to inner band is elastic loop to secure to wearer's head. Designer's label at inside lower edge of crown: "Germaine Montabert"
Date: 1940/1949
Creator: Montabert, Germaine
System: The UNT Digital Library

Suit

Late day three-piece suit of black velvet. a) Jacket in modified bolero style with squared bottom corners. Long sleeves with 5" wide cuffs of heavy, white, open cut lace. Lined in cream satin. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" b) Blouse of white linen. Sleeveless. Collar of 6-1/2" wide lace matching cuffs of jacket. Tie of black ribbed silk attaches to collar with hook & loops. Center front opening with 5 small, circular white pearl buttons and tailored buttonholes reinforced with a snap at the neckline and a hook & eye at the waistline. Half-inch pin tucked front. c) Skirt of black velvet. Slight A-line with a 4" purple silk satin cummerbund waistband. Waistband is reinforced with boning and black grosgrain petersham. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in black silk crepe.
Date: 1941/1949
Creator: Norell, Norman, 1900-1972
System: The UNT Digital Library

Hat

Hat of black felt. The low, domed crown of black felt is ornamented with a double-spray of black feathers at front. The brim, also of black felt, is turned up at front and turned down at back. The underside of the brim, which shows at front, is lined in black lace embellished with tiny black sequins and beads (jet?). The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Attached to inner hatband is a small black plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Grace Nugent / Los Angeles, Calif." Supplier's logo mark of Merrimac De Luxe Fur Felt stamped to inside of crown.
Date: 1940/1944
Creator: Nugent, Grace
System: The UNT Digital Library

D'Orsay Pumps

Pair of brown suede D'Orsay Pumps. The shoes have brown suede rounded toe box and heel area, but are open at sides to the sole. Small inverted V cut at front creating "peep-toe" effect. On top of vamp is sewn on brown suede "tie" forming the effect of a bow. Brown suede ankle strap. Thick 3 1/2" high spike heel covered in brown suede. Marked inside heel of both shoes: "17061-1 / 6 S / 11310X"; Stamped on sole of both shoes: "Pandora / Footwear" The D'Orsay Pumps style of shoes is named after Count d'Orsay, a 19th century leader of French Society.
Date: 1949
Creator: Pandora Footwear
System: The UNT Digital Library

Lingerie nightgown

Blue or aqua satin long nightgown with white/ecru embroidery on yoke and short sleeves. Size: Medium
Date: 1940
Creator: Pedlar, Sylvia
System: The UNT Digital Library