Black silk mourning ensemble consisting of bodice and skirt. The bodice of black silk is fitted and boned, with a high, standing black silk band collar with appliqued black lace medallions. It has full-length, modified bishop sleeves that gather into the armseye. Below the gathered cap, in the portion corresponding to the upper arm, the fullness of the sleeve is controlled with top-stitched vertical tucks. From the elbow to the cuff the fullness is again released in a bishop sleeve silhouette. The sleeves gather again into wide black silk cuffs with appliqued black lace medallions and four narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front is constructed on the lines of a bolero jacket, with a deep V-shaped opening and wide ruffled collar which is constructed of horizontally tucked black crepe-patterned silk. The released fullness of the tucking creates the ruffled finish. The ruffled portion is edged with two narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front has a bib fill of gathered black silk and tulle net that is secured with hook-and-eyes beneath the left collar overlay. The fill area disguises the true front opening which is secured with thirteen hook-and-eyes. The main body of the bodice, …

Handbag. Rectangular frame of cast openwork brass floral designs with traces of gilding. Ball and snap closure and gilt brass suspension chain. Bag is of dark purple crocheted silk, with three different types of beading. Area at frame is plain all-over beading of purple/bronze iridescent cut beads. Below this, and at bottom of bag is fringe of looped beading. The main body of the bag has vertical stripes of beads arranged in horizontal rows. Lined with bright purple silk, trimmed in gold cording. Contains a small gold kid leather purse embossed with a stylized thorn pattern.

Handbag. Rectangular bronze frame chased with scrolling floral forms. Ball/snap closure and bronze chain. Body of purse of off-white woven cloth covered in beaded design of red, pink, green, black, and white in an American Indian or possibly Caucasian motifs. Originally lined in pink silk. Frame is marked "Germany".

Folding fan made of thin polished wood or bamboo guards lacquered a dark mahogany and dyed purple. Paper leaf with hand-painted abstract design of flowers and foliage on a reddish ground. Metal bail. Reverse is unadorned. No visible labels or marks.

Folding mourning fan. Guards and sticks of plain black wood, shaped but not adorned. The leaf is of plain black cloth. No visible labels, marks or signatures.

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Hat of off-white silk over straw base. The crown slightly rounded at top, covered in off-white silk, with ruching and folds around side. Affixed to sides of crown at various points are artificial flowers of various colors of velvet. The medium-width brim is circular, of woven straw, originally covered with off-white silk, now mostly perished. The inside of the crown is lined in off-white muslin, partly shattered, and the underside of the brim was originally lined in white silk, now mostly perished. There are no labels or marks in the hat.

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Pair of lady's shoes of black kid leather and broadcloth. The "high button shoes" have black leather toe boxes with pointed toes and black leather sections at heels which extend from heel up the back of the shoe. The uppers are of black wool broadcloth. Shoes secure at outside edges with 12 circular, slightly domed black buttons. Upper edges lined with black leather, the rest lined with white cloth. The medium-height heel is rounded at sides and back, and squared-off at front. Although not technically a "stacked" heel, the layers can be seen. Maker's label sewn into lining at top: "Wichert / Shoe / Trade Mark / New York U.S.A." Retailer's gilt stamp on inside edge: "Norton's / Gainesville, Tex." Handwritten notation inside boot, just below upper edge: "36-1 36752 / 330".

Sunbonnet of off-white calico cotton with a tiny repeated print of three stylized leaves in brown. The brim of the hat is quilted in L-shaped rows of stitching and is very stiff from starch and stiffening material within it. The crown is gathered along the entire length of the seam where it attaches to the brim. The crown and tail are formed from a single piece of fabric, and the tail is stitched flat to the lower sides of brim. The neck is adjustable, having outer neck ties stitched to the lower corners of the brim on both sides. The chin ties are of the same fabric, with unfinished edges. The long tail on the bonnet indicates that it was used as a field bonnet. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object.

Hat of silk. The off-white silk crown is domed, with excess fabric forming a ruched band around the lower part of the crown. The front and sides of the crown are embellished with embroidery and needlework of large flowers and foliage in white. Around the base of the crown is a band of white grosgrain ribbon, with rosette and trailing ribbons at side. The medium-width oval brim is of white silk over stiffened mesh framework, with outer band formed by openwork stitching. The brim is set off-center to the crown, extending the farthest from side to side, and with more brim in front than at back. The underside of the brim is faced with black velvet. The hat is lined in white silk, now shattering. There are no labels or marks in the hat.

Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black and tan leather. The lower section of the shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of black leather. The upper sections, of tan leather, close along center front with laces, 17 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black and tan leather. Stamped on sole: "TEDCO / Trade Mark" Stamped on lining: "435 72307 4" and "Tedco"

Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of tan leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of tan leather which close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather. Stamped on lining: "H.Seligmann / Seguin, Tex." and "356 10146" Stamped on sole is a wreath containing an image of a shoe and label "Duchess".

Child's sunbonnet of white cotton. Channel-stitched. Corded brim that also stiffens and shapes bonnet. Long curtain of same.

Infant's bonnet of white cotton, possibly as part of a christening set. Lace inset and tucking near brim. Gathered shell. Ties of self.

Pair of shoes of ivory kid leather. Designed as "flats" with pointed toes, the shoes have a wide strap across instep, to which is applied large silk bow embellished with small white beads. Top of upper with edged with thin band of ivory silk ribbon. Maker's mark stamped inside: "Brandt's / St. Louis"

Child's poke-type bonnet of white silk. Completely shirred and trimmed with white satin ribbon, outlined with lace. High crown to which circular shirred flange has been added. Label inside crown mostly illegible; last word is "Chicago".

Capelet of dark brown to black plush, possibly silk and cotton, resembling seal fur. Rounded roll collar trimmed in brown soutache braid stitched with a line of purple thread and black glass or jet beads. Center front opening with hook & eye at neck. Trimmed in light brown with purple soutache braid and hexagonal prism, black glass beads. Collar and center front opening bound by black braid (appears to have been added after the original garment was made). Fully lined in a printed polished cotton (not original) of black with looping rope design and repeated fan shapes of pale blue, red, and cream.

Child's "apron" dress of woven red and blue striped flannel with collar and one box pleat in front. Center front opening with snap at neckline. No belt - possibly missing.

Daytime coat of black wool for mourning wear. The princess-line shell of the coat falls to mid-calf with a scalloped hem, and has a high standing band collar lined with a gathered black silk ruffle. The ruffle is edged with two narrow bands of ruching and is embellished with cut-work backed in black silk, the cut-work edged with black grosgrain ribbon decorated with black beads and jet. From the center front of the collar, trailing black silk ribbon accents fall to knee-length, and four knee-length ribbons are finished with beaded tassels. The coat has full-length, shaped, slightly flared sleeves that gather into the armseye and are embellished with cut-work motifs and beading as the collar. The cuff edges are faced with box pleated bands of black silk ribbon. Center-front opening of coat with black wool placket facing from neck to waistline, and is secured with seven hook & eyes. Two more hook & eyes catch the front opening at mid-thigh and knee-level. The coat front and back are embellished with black silk backed cut-work and beading as the collar and sleeves. Fully lined in black silk. Black waist tie secured to lining.

Dressing gown/wrapper of black peau de soie. Mother Hubbard style, full-length, shawl collar trimmed with 2 tiers of ruffles of same, and white lace and black velvet ribbon and then bands of white cording overlaid with/couched down with black stitching. Long sleeves with turned 3" back-turned cuffs with white cording and black velvet trim. Hook and eye closure CF. Long velvet ribbon ties at throat. Pleated at center back, with short horizontal diamond-shaped "belt" across lower back, below which is more pleating. Label: "Meyer Jonasson & Co / Pittsburg. New York"

Driving Coat or "Duster" of light tan linen (blend?). Full-length, wide skirted, with high neckline and black collar having wide points at front. Single breasted opening set to left of center, with two hidden small white buttons (1 at throat, one at left collar bone), and five large circular buttons with black outer rims and center of the tan linen. Full-length sleeves with wide turned-back cuffs faced with black and with two non-functioning buttons matching but smaller than opening buttons. Two large patch pockets at hips. Unlined. No labels in garment.

Day dress ensemble: A) Bodice of ivory crinkled cotton gauze with a tiny floral print in vertical stripes and waves. High standing band collar with lace yoke and matching cotton ruffle around shoulders; trimmed with two rows of thin dark brown ribbon. Long sleeves are gathered in armhole and are completely covered in pin tucks which open and flare out at wrists; wrists trimmed in two narrow rows of dark brown velvet ribbon. Button closure at left side shoulder and under armseye; string tie of self at waist. Unlined. B) Skirt of matching fabric in full, A-line silhouette. Slightly trained with two rows of self ruffle at hem. Center back opening. Unlined.

Black plush evening cape with midnight blue(?) soutache braid trim.