Resource Type

Wedding Ensemble

Wedding gown of fine white batiste with various kinds of lace. The full-length gown has a slender silhouette which flares out from the Empire waist downward to the hem. The high neckline has a standing lace collar at throat, an embroidered net section covering lower throat and upper chest, an attached small lace fichu or bertha below that, and attached lace simulated shawl collar "lapels" running from the waist at back, up and over the shoulders, to the waist at front. The short sleeves are of bands and tiers of lace, with a satin band and tightly pleated/ruched rosette on each sleeve near cuff. At waist is a wide satin band with larger pleated/ruched satin rosette in front and back. The main body of the skirt has a vertical inset lace panel at front and back which runs from waist to about knee-height. The lower part of the skirt is made of inset horizontal bands of various types of lace Dress has a center back opening with a series of 28 hook-and-eyes, four hook-and-eyes for satin band at waist, and 3 hook-and-eyes for inner waistband. Not shown are accompanying half slip edged with lace and elbow-length kidskin leather gloves size …
Date: 1908
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt

Black silk mourning ensemble consisting of bodice and skirt. The bodice of black silk is fitted and boned, with a high, standing black silk band collar with appliqued black lace medallions. It has full-length, modified bishop sleeves that gather into the armseye. Below the gathered cap, in the portion corresponding to the upper arm, the fullness of the sleeve is controlled with top-stitched vertical tucks. From the elbow to the cuff the fullness is again released in a bishop sleeve silhouette. The sleeves gather again into wide black silk cuffs with appliqued black lace medallions and four narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front is constructed on the lines of a bolero jacket, with a deep V-shaped opening and wide ruffled collar which is constructed of horizontally tucked black crepe-patterned silk. The released fullness of the tucking creates the ruffled finish. The ruffled portion is edged with two narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front has a bib fill of gathered black silk and tulle net that is secured with hook-and-eyes beneath the left collar overlay. The fill area disguises the true front opening which is secured with thirteen hook-and-eyes. The main body of the bodice, …
Date: 1900/1903
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Dress

Day dress of black silk taffeta. The dress, in the style of the Aesthetic or Reform Movement, is full-length, with a slender silhouette. The front and back of the bodice is styled of tiny vertical knife-pleats, which gather into the rounded neckline. The side panels of the bodice are plain, and there is a line of 14 snaps along the left side forming the closure. The long sleeves are smooth, with slight pleating at the padded shoulders, and they taper to the pointed wrists. The sleeves have 5 hidden snaps and a line of 12 domed non-functioning black taffeta covered buttons on each sleeve. Bodice and skirt are divided by a thin black band. Skirt is fully pleated with tiny vertical knife-pleats. Bodice is lined with thin black crepe. Label sewn inside at back below neckline: "Harbison / Vandervoort's St Louis" Not shown is the accompanying cummerbund of black taffeta, the waistband of large horizontal pleats with a large fan/bow at back with wide, trailing ribbons. (43" from waist to lowest point of ribbons)
Date: 1902
Creator: Harbison, Samuel
System: The UNT Digital Library

Handbag

Handbag. Rectangular frame of cast openwork brass floral designs with traces of gilding. Ball and snap closure and gilt brass suspension chain. Bag is of dark purple crocheted silk, with three different types of beading. Area at frame is plain all-over beading of purple/bronze iridescent cut beads. Below this, and at bottom of bag is fringe of looped beading. The main body of the bag has vertical stripes of beads arranged in horizontal rows. Lined with bright purple silk, trimmed in gold cording. Contains a small gold kid leather purse embossed with a stylized thorn pattern.
Date: 1900/1909
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Beaded Bag

Handbag. Rectangular bronze frame chased with scrolling floral forms. Ball/snap closure and bronze chain. Body of purse of off-white woven cloth covered in beaded design of red, pink, green, black, and white in an American Indian or possibly Caucasian motifs. Originally lined in pink silk. Frame is marked "Germany".
Date: 1900/1920
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Fan

None
Date: 1906
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Fan

Folding fan made of thin polished wood or bamboo guards lacquered a dark mahogany and dyed purple. Paper leaf with hand-painted abstract design of flowers and foliage on a reddish ground. Metal bail. Reverse is unadorned. No visible labels or marks.
Date: 1900/1950
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Mourning Fan

Folding mourning fan. Guards and sticks of plain black wood, shaped but not adorned. The leaf is of plain black cloth. No visible labels, marks or signatures.
Date: 1900/1925
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Fan

None
Date: 1900
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Hat

Hat of off-white silk over straw base. The crown slightly rounded at top, covered in off-white silk, with ruching and folds around side. Affixed to sides of crown at various points are artificial flowers of various colors of velvet. The medium-width brim is circular, of woven straw, originally covered with off-white silk, now mostly perished. The inside of the crown is lined in off-white muslin, partly shattered, and the underside of the brim was originally lined in white silk, now mostly perished. There are no labels or marks in the hat.
Date: 1900/1910
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Beaded shoes

Pair of white kid ladies' shoes. Styled with pointed-toes, the white kid leather upper has a vamp decorated with tiny gunmetal beads edging oval cut-outs, and with massed beading at center of each vamp. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Back and sides of heel covered in matching leather. Lined in white leather. Natural brown leather sole. Retailer's stamp inside: "Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas Maker's code stamped inside: "150 / B19003"
Date: 1907
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Shoes

None
Date: 1900
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Shoes

Pair of lady's shoes of black kid leather and broadcloth. The "high button shoes" have black leather toe boxes with pointed toes and black leather sections at heels which extend from heel up the back of the shoe. The uppers are of black wool broadcloth. Shoes secure at outside edges with 12 circular, slightly domed black buttons. Upper edges lined with black leather, the rest lined with white cloth. The medium-height heel is rounded at sides and back, and squared-off at front. Although not technically a "stacked" heel, the layers can be seen. Maker's label sewn into lining at top: "Wichert / Shoe / Trade Mark / New York U.S.A." Retailer's gilt stamp on inside edge: "Norton's / Gainesville, Tex." Handwritten notation inside boot, just below upper edge: "36-1 36752 / 330".
Date: 1900/1909
Creator: Wichert Shoe (New York, New York)
System: The UNT Digital Library

Wedding Shoes

Pair of white kid ladies' shoes. Styled with pointed-toes, the white kid leather upper has a vamp decorated with geometric and stylized foliate designs in crystal beads. The shoes secure across instep with single ribbon tie on each, creating a "peep" just above toes. Lined in white leather. Natural brown leather sole. Heel is of medium height, rounded at back and tapering slightly to base. Similar to what would become a Cuban heel. Maker's code stamped inside: "35-C 3021" Worn by Norma Tiemann at her marriage to Val L. Lehmann in Brenham, Texas in 1907.
Date: 1907
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Sunbonnet

Sunbonnet of off-white calico cotton with a tiny repeated print of three stylized leaves in brown. The brim of the hat is quilted in L-shaped rows of stitching and is very stiff from starch and stiffening material within it. The crown is gathered along the entire length of the seam where it attaches to the brim. The crown and tail are formed from a single piece of fabric, and the tail is stitched flat to the lower sides of brim. The neck is adjustable, having outer neck ties stitched to the lower corners of the brim on both sides. The chin ties are of the same fabric, with unfinished edges. The long tail on the bonnet indicates that it was used as a field bonnet. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object.
Date: 1900/1909
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Hat

Little girl's Easter bonnet. Wired base with mushroom type top of black velvet and double ruffled brim of white lace. Small pink roses and green stems encircle hat above lace brim.
Date: 1905
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Hat

Hat of silk. The off-white silk crown is domed, with excess fabric forming a ruched band around the lower part of the crown. The front and sides of the crown are embellished with embroidery and needlework of large flowers and foliage in white. Around the base of the crown is a band of white grosgrain ribbon, with rosette and trailing ribbons at side. The medium-width oval brim is of white silk over stiffened mesh framework, with outer band formed by openwork stitching. The brim is set off-center to the crown, extending the farthest from side to side, and with more brim in front than at back. The underside of the brim is faced with black velvet. The hat is lined in white silk, now shattering. There are no labels or marks in the hat.
Date: 1900/1910
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Boots

Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black and tan leather. The lower section of the shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of black leather. The upper sections, of tan leather, close along center front with laces, 17 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black and tan leather. Stamped on sole: "TEDCO / Trade Mark" Stamped on lining: "435 72307 4" and "Tedco"
Date: 1900
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Boots

Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of white kidskin leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes close along center front with laces, 17 holes high. Embellished at top with band of small holes along edge of boot. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather. Stamped on lining: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" and "28D 23949"
Date: 1907/1910
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Boots

Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of tan leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of tan leather which close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather. Stamped on lining: "H.Seligmann / Seguin, Tex." and "356 10146" Stamped on sole is a wreath containing an image of a shoe and label "Duchess".
Date: 1900
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Bonnet

Child's sunbonnet of white cotton. Channel-stitched. Corded brim that also stiffens and shapes bonnet. Long curtain of same.
Date: 1900
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Bonnet

Infant's bonnet of white cotton, possibly as part of a christening set. Lace inset and tucking near brim. Gathered shell. Ties of self.
Date: 1900
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Shoes

Pair of shoes of ivory kid leather. Designed as "flats" with pointed toes, the shoes have a wide strap across instep, to which is applied large silk bow embellished with small white beads. Top of upper with edged with thin band of ivory silk ribbon. Maker's mark stamped inside: "Brandt's / St. Louis"
Date: 1900/1909
Creator: J.G. Brandt Shoe Co.
System: The UNT Digital Library

Bonnet

Child's poke-type bonnet of white silk. Completely shirred and trimmed with white satin ribbon, outlined with lace. High crown to which circular shirred flange has been added. Label inside crown mostly illegible; last word is "Chicago".
Date: 1900/1909
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library