Wedding Ensemble

Wedding gown of fine white batiste with various kinds of lace. The full-length gown has a slender silhouette which flares out from the Empire waist downward to the hem. The high neckline has a standing lace collar at throat, an embroidered net section covering lower throat and upper chest, an attached small lace fichu or bertha below that, and attached lace simulated shawl collar "lapels" running from the waist at back, up and over the shoulders, to the waist at front. The short sleeves are of bands and tiers of lace, with a satin band and tightly pleated/ruched rosette on each sleeve near cuff. At waist is a wide satin band with larger pleated/ruched satin rosette in front and back. The main body of the skirt has a vertical inset lace panel at front and back which runs from waist to about knee-height. The lower part of the skirt is made of inset horizontal bands of various types of lace Dress has a center back opening with a series of 28 hook-and-eyes, four hook-and-eyes for satin band at waist, and 3 hook-and-eyes for inner waistband. Not shown are accompanying half slip edged with lace and elbow-length kidskin leather gloves size …
Date: 1908
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Dress

Day dress of black silk taffeta. The dress, in the style of the Aesthetic or Reform Movement, is full-length, with a slender silhouette. The front and back of the bodice is styled of tiny vertical knife-pleats, which gather into the rounded neckline. The side panels of the bodice are plain, and there is a line of 14 snaps along the left side forming the closure. The long sleeves are smooth, with slight pleating at the padded shoulders, and they taper to the pointed wrists. The sleeves have 5 hidden snaps and a line of 12 domed non-functioning black taffeta covered buttons on each sleeve. Bodice and skirt are divided by a thin black band. Skirt is fully pleated with tiny vertical knife-pleats. Bodice is lined with thin black crepe. Label sewn inside at back below neckline: "Harbison / Vandervoort's St Louis" Not shown is the accompanying cummerbund of black taffeta, the waistband of large horizontal pleats with a large fan/bow at back with wide, trailing ribbons. (43" from waist to lowest point of ribbons)
Date: 1902
Creator: Harbison, Samuel
System: The UNT Digital Library

Fan

Folding fan made of thin polished wood or bamboo guards lacquered a dark mahogany and dyed purple. Paper leaf with hand-painted abstract design of flowers and foliage on a reddish ground. Metal bail. Reverse is unadorned. No visible labels or marks.
Date: 1900/1950
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Mourning Fan

Folding mourning fan. Guards and sticks of plain black wood, shaped but not adorned. The leaf is of plain black cloth. No visible labels, marks or signatures.
Date: 1900/1925
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Child's Dress

Child's "apron" dress of woven red and blue striped flannel with collar and one box pleat in front. Center front opening with snap at neckline. No belt - possibly missing.
Date: 1900/1910
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Bonnet

Child's poke-type bonnet of white silk. Completely shirred and trimmed with white satin ribbon, outlined with lace. High crown to which circular shirred flange has been added. Label inside crown mostly illegible; last word is "Chicago".
Date: 1900/1909
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Dress

Dress of midnight blue velvet with cream silk(?) bodice overlaid with pleated sheer black fabric. Rounded neckline edged with black lace, with wired standing collar at back of neck. Long pointed sleeves of matching velvet with wide collars of black net/corded lace overlaying cream silk sleeves trimmed with cream lace. Long, full skirt gathers onto waist under a 3" wide, attached velvet belt trimmed with net covered in black sequins and jet beads with round buckle. Hem with wide black net/corded lace band over sheer black silk(?), with narrow triple-layer black silk gauze ruffle at bottom. With accompanying bolero style vest of black net with applique cording/corded lace. Fastens across front with narrow ribbon of midnight blue velvet with central "pendant" butterfly of black sequins and jet bead as head of butterfly.
Date: 1909/1912
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Petticoat

Long white/Ivory cotton tulle combination petticoat with narrow ruffled hem. V-necked, sleeveless. Long torso with gathered flounce starting below hips which dips slightly in back. Probably part of net dress ensemble. Size 10-12
Date: 1900/1909
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Opera cape

Opera Cape. Cream satin cape thickly lined, flaring from shoulder yoke with double-pleats in the back. Long shawl collar of white fox fur. Floor-length and trimmed with eleven bands of gold braid in scallops. Trimmed with braid and fur. Size 12
Date: 1905/1915
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Beaded Bag

Handbag. Rectangular bronze frame chased with scrolling floral forms. Ball/snap closure and bronze chain. Body of purse of off-white woven cloth covered in beaded design of red, pink, green, black, and white in an American Indian or possibly Caucasian motifs. Originally lined in pink silk. Frame is marked "Germany".
Date: 1900/1920
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Beaded handbag

Chatelaine bag of faceted jet beads in circular pattern. Ornate silver figural frame and circular ornate twist tab closure; plain on back. Fabric back and lining. Looped fringe of self. Large linked metal chain and hook in ornate figure of a woman (Athena?). No labels or markings. Measurements: 14 cm in diameter
Date: 1900/1919
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Combination petticoat

Combination petticoat of cotton with lace inserts running vertically as gores from round gathered neckline to drop waist, ruffled and gathered tiers with lace at bottom hem, pink ribbons at neckline and drop waist, sleeveless.
Date: 1900
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Dickey

Dickey of cotton eyelet, center front button closure with placket, high collar neckline, ends just below armscye.
Date: 1900/1909
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Mesh purse

Purse of German or French silver mesh with scalloped fringe. Ornate silver frame in pentagon shape with blue cabochons at hinged ball twist closure; linked chain handle. Initialed "E. E." on inside of frame at closure. Measurements: 15.5 cm across base of frame; 17 cm from bottom of frame to bottom center, excluding fringe.
Date: 1900/1919
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Red leather pumps

Pair of lady's dancing pumps of red kid leather. The shoes, designed with gently pointed toes, are of soft red fine kid leather leather with a square-ended flap at vamp/instep, and applied red satin bow at vamp. The inner sole of the shoe is a dark red quilted satin. The low heels are styled as a modified boulevard or Louis XV heel, (1") with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and straight across at front. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of black leather at heel and tan on rest of shoe. Stamped in sole on one shoe: "2", on other: "4". Measurements: Length: 26 cm Width: 8cm Height: 8cm Heel: 2.5cm (1") high on axis w/cap
Date: 1900
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Leather boots

Pair of lady's boots of black leather and wool broadcloth. The "high button shoes" are designed with pointed toes gently rounded at tips. The lower part, including vamp, are of black leather. The upper part is of black wool broadcloth edged at scalloped top with black leather, and with black leather accent band running from heel partly up the back of the boot. The boots lace up along the front with 20 holes. Lined at top with reddish/orange fabric, the body of the shoe lined in white fabric. High heels are rounded at sides and back, flaring slightly to base, and curved at front. Black leather soles. Stamped notation inside: "3 1/2 B R251" L: 24 cm W: 7 cm H: 27 cm Heel: 6 cm / 2.5 in.
Date: 1900/1909
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Leather riding boots

Pair of lady's riding boots of black/dark brown leather. The "high button shoes" are designed with pointed toes gently rounded at tips, the boots lace up along the back with 12 holes/hooks. Lined in white fabric. High heels are rounded at sides and back, flaring slightly to base, and curved at front. Black leather soles. Styled after Mexican type. Modified Louis XV heel. Size 3B Hand-written note: "3-13 / 38405 / 413" Retailer's label stamped in gilt, mostly illegible: "STEPINSHU" Portland, Oregon Brand stamped in gilt: "STEPINSHU / Trade Mark / Pat. Applied" Stamped in sole: "WICHERT" L: 22 cm W: 7 cm H: 21 cm Heel: 5 cm / 2 in.
Date: 1905/1915
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Leather boots

Pair of boots or "high button shoes" of gray/very pale blue leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes rounded at the tips, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. The high heels are rounded at sides and back, tapering to center and flaring back out at base, and are curved at front. The sole is of tan leather. Shoes are lined in matching leather and off-white cloth. Retailer's stamp on lining: "Byrn's Boot Sh [partly illeg] / Kansas City" L: 26.5 cm W: 7.5 cm H: 27 cm Heel: 5.5 cm / 2 1/8 in.
Date: 1908/1911
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Leather boots

Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black calf leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. High heels styled as a modified thick boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering slightly to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Stamped on lining: "355 31769" L: 25.5 cm W: 7.5 cm H: 26.5 cm Heel: 5 cm / 2 in.
Date: 1900/1909
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Shoes

Pair of lady's shoes of black kid leather and broadcloth. The "high button shoes" have black leather toe boxes with pointed toes and black leather sections at heels which extend from heel up the back of the shoe. The uppers are of black wool broadcloth. Shoes secure at outside edges with 12 circular, slightly domed black buttons. Upper edges lined with black leather, the rest lined with white cloth. The medium-height heel is rounded at sides and back, and squared-off at front. Although not technically a "stacked" heel, the layers can be seen. Maker's label sewn into lining at top: "Wichert / Shoe / Trade Mark / New York U.S.A." Retailer's gilt stamp on inside edge: "Norton's / Gainesville, Tex." Handwritten notation inside boot, just below upper edge: "36-1 36752 / 330".
Date: 1900/1909
Creator: Wichert Shoe (New York, New York)
System: The UNT Digital Library

Wedding Shoes

Pair of white kid ladies' shoes. Styled with pointed-toes, the white kid leather upper has a vamp decorated with geometric and stylized foliate designs in crystal beads. The shoes secure across instep with single ribbon tie on each, creating a "peep" just above toes. Lined in white leather. Natural brown leather sole. Heel is of medium height, rounded at back and tapering slightly to base. Similar to what would become a Cuban heel. Maker's code stamped inside: "35-C 3021" Worn by Norma Tiemann at her marriage to Val L. Lehmann in Brenham, Texas in 1907.
Date: 1907
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Leather shoes

Pair of lady's shoes of black leather. The shoes, designed as oxford style shoes with pointed toes, are of black leather which close along center front with laces, 6 holes high. High heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of black leather. There are no marks or labels on the shoes. Measurements: Length: 27.5 cm Width: 10cm Height: 13cm Heel: 5.5cm (2 1/4") high on axis w/cap
Date: 1900/1909
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Brown leather shoes

Pair of lady's shoes of brown leather. The shoes, designed with gently pointed toes, are of the Oxford style of brown leather with openwork at sides of instep and with laced closure at instep of 4 holes height. The medium height heels are styled as a modified Cuban or continental heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering to base, and slightly curved at front. The heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather, with rubber/composite on heel. Stamped in lining on one shoe: "Arch Rest / Drew / Portsmouth. O." Stamped into lining of shoe: "8 1/2 AAA 75537 / 6003" Stamped on inner sole: "[drawing of arrow] INTERIOR / DREW / [illeg]CK REST" Tooled into inner sole at heel: "SNUG-FITTING / HEEL" Molded into rubber of heel: "Biltrite" L: 26 cm W: 8 cm H: 12.5 cm Heel: 5 cm / 2 in.
Date: 1908/1910
Creator: Drew Shoe Co.
System: The UNT Digital Library

Hat

Hat of dull golden horsehair mesh over wire framework. Cylindrical crown widening to base of horsehair constructed in a spiral, on wire armature. Side of crown with wide black velvet band with self bow at back. Slightly oval brim of same horsehair set so sides are wider than front or back. Brim slopes slightly from crown to outer rim, with thin wire framework to retain shape. Attached at sides are sprays of artificial flowers and leaves. Underside of brim lined with gathered extremely fine pale chiffon. Crown has inner rigid structure that extends below brim, creating a "support" that rests on wearer's head. Exterior of inner structure lined with black velvet, inner lining of white fabric with "drawstring" center gather. No labels or tags.
Date: 1904
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library