(At Left) Evening ensemble of brown silk shantung. The camisole is sleeveless, with a boat neckline. Center back closure with 10 small circular buttons covered with matching fabric. The blouse is lined in dark brown silk, and has an inner structure of net and metal boning. The understructure extends below the top to give structure to the skirt. The inner net and boning layer has a center back closure of 14 hook-and-eyes, matching along same line as outer closure. The skirt is of matching materials, A-line, below-the-knee length. It has a 2" waistband decorated with horizontal ruching. Center-back zipper closure with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. The skirt has an attached black rayon gorgette underslip, and an attached black nylon petticoat. The petticoat has a horsehair braid incorporated in the hem for stiffening. The matching swing coat is calf length, with a rolled collar and short sleeves. It is constructed with several layers of organza for structure and a tuck panel around the coat for decoration and flounce. Lined in brown silk. There are no labels in the garment. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - …

Ball gown of pink silk taffeta. The off-the-shoulder design has several layers of cream colored Chantilly lace around the neckline/shoulder edge. The dress itself is of bright fuchsia pink silk taffeta with ties over each arm. The bodice is seamed and fitted, with a left side seam zipper. The attached matching taffeta skirt is gathered and draped horizontally, and has several layers of Chantilly lace at hem. The skirt has three hoops under the lining.

Cocktail hat of violet silk satin. The hat is formed of a low, cylindrical, flat-topped pillbox-style crown covered in drapes of violet/purple silk satin fabric. At center front/top of the crown are two large sculptural stiffened loops of the fabric. Crown is lined in cream fabric. Along inside lower edge of crown is a cream grosgrain ribbon band.

Hat with long flowing black feathers falling from a sculpted black silk tulle crown.

Hat of gray felt. The domed crown is constructed with the the outline of a rounded square, with attached stiffened double-brim, which turns up on all sides, forming a point at front and at sides, but rounded in back. At the back of the hat the brim extends downwards, forming a point. The hat is unlined, and edged with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. A small stitched star on the hatband indicates the front of the hat. Visible behind the ribbon in one section is the woven straw backing used to stiffen the brim. Designer's label inside crown, sewn to ribbon band: "Hattie Carnegie / Custom Made" Stamped inside crown on felt: Circular mark containing a logo of three rabbits and partly missing word "... URLAP", and below logo ".... en France".

Hatlet of burgundy fabric covered with artificial flowers. The hatlet is formed as an oval of stiffened burgundy fabric intended to be worn across the top of the head. The hatlet is almost entirely covered with artificial flowers of velvets, silk, and other fabrics. The flowers are primarily in pinks/purples/reds, with green stems and leaves. The hat is lined in black satin and edged with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the ribbon indicates the front of the hat. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is very large, extending across the full width of the inside of the hatlet, the word "Paris" partly obscured by the grosgrain ribbon.

Hat of dark green felt and multicolored yarns. Formed in the style of a small bonnet, the cylindrical crown is pointed back, and cut flat across top. The front of the crown is overlaid by a band of heavily embroidered/crocheted flowers and ground of various colors of yarn, and scattered shaped beads. This band is bordered by a thick purple yarn. At the front of the hat and extending along the sides are the brim, folded back to form a second wide band of heavily embroidered/crocheted flowers and ground. The hat is unlined, and from the inside can be seen the inner part of the embroidery/crochet. Maker's label sewn inside hat, at back of crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y."

Hat of red satin and sequins. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") of dark red satin almost completely covered in sequined floral appliques. Irregular lower edge, following the outline of the appliques. Lined in black paper (?) and satin, and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the band indicates the front of the hat, and a small applied white ribbon bow is set at back. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, extending across the inside of the hat, the "Paris", most of "New" and all of "York" are cut off.

Calotte style hat made of brown net covered with green silk leaves and violet rose buds. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Made in France / Christian Dior / Paris"

Cloche-style hat of blue/gray feathers. The crown of the hat is made of dark blue mesh overlaid with a mosaic of blue/gray feathers. Brimless, the lower edge of the crown arcs upwards at front and slightly in back. The hat is lined in the mesh, and has an inner hatband at the lower inside edge of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made In / France", "Christian Dior / Paris"

Hat of black sequins over net/lace. Styled as a modified pillbox or beret, the hat has a circular low, flattened crown and no brim. The base is of black lace/net, totally covered with massed black sequins. At sides are small diamond-shaped sections that extend down to either side of wearer's head. Hat is unlined, with black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Label inside: "Sequins Styled / and / Imported / from France".

Pillbox hat of cream satin entirely covered with beading and rhinestones. The low, circular crown is covered in a ground of silver/white sequins with scattered fuchsia and clear rhinestones and light blue beads. At top of crown is central rosette with central fuchsia stone surrounded by a ring of clear stones. Retailer's labels inside: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to order"; "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus"

Hat of navy blue fur felt. The low crown is domed, with steep sides at sides and back, while the front has a shallow slope extending out to become a slight brim/visor. The hat is unlined, with a dark blue grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" Stamped inside felt crown: "French Importation" "Ghazelle" Size label: "21 1/2"

Hat of beige velour. Styled as a modified calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a low domed crown and narrow rolled brim with extends slightly more in front to form a "visor" shape. Set at front of hat is an ornament of crossed large white and beige feathers, and smaller gray and white ones. Underside of visor lined with an off-white jersey-like material, and the hat has an inner hatband of dark gray beige grosgrain ribbon overlaid with silver rickrack and pink lace. Maker's label: "Chapeaux / Paris...Chicago" Stamped inside crown: "Midi / Imported velour body / Made in France"

Hat of red/orange straw. Constructed of bands of braided straw sewn in a spiral, the crown is a shallow cylinder with inset flattened top, and flares out at base to form the steeply sloped brim. At left side of crown is large applied flat bow of same straw. Unlined, the hat has an inner band of self, partly overlaid with cream velvet as a hatband.

Picture hat of light beige finely woven straw. The domed crown is encircled at base by a rolled tube of the same straw, into which at front is twined the stem of a beige silk satin rose. The wide, slightly floppy brim is strengthened at brim by rolling up and over. The hat is unlined, with inner beige grosgrain ribbon hatband, and two small elastic cords at sides to help secure combs/pins to help hold hat to wearer's head. No labels.

(b) Green wool pillbox hat with (a) matching scarf. Measurements: scarf (a): Width: 128 cm. Height: 66 cm. pillbox hat (b): Side to Side: 17 cm. Front to Back: 19 cm. Height: 10 cm.

Hat created with a green and white silk scarf printed with a plaid pattern. The framework is a domed crown, higher at front than back, over which the silk scarf is fastened, pulled to back forming knotted ornament with trailing end. Lined in white mesh tulle, through which the under-structure can be seen. Inner pale green and white grosgrain ribbon hatband, with translucent brown plastic comb at inside front to secure to wearer's head.

Off-white baku straw hat made like a Nun's hood. Calot type crown with lower back portion severed. Front brim extends forward 2 1/2" even with crown, and encircles to below ears. widens to 5" which is folded to 2" width pleat.

Hat of white linen, round mushroom crown, very small brim, bow center back.

Dress (evening?) of gray and gold brocade in floral pattern with small roses. Below knee length, with short sleeves, and with collarless rounded neckline, split at center front. Center front opening, which has: 3 self-covered circular buttons and bound button holes on bodice; one hook-and-loop tab in pleating; three hook and loop fasteners at dropped waist narrow waistband/belt; 6 functioning self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes on skirt; and with two faux bound button holes at bottom near hem. Full skirt is pleated into waistband. Large bow-form of self at center back of waistband. Lined in sheer cream silk. Designer's label at waist, right back: "Christian Dior - New York Inc."

Evening dress of black silk taffeta. Street length; short sleeves. Scooped neckline with attached, pleated capelet/stole which secures to dress with snaps and white, 4-1/2" wide grosgrain ribbon bow at left. Bow buttons onto capelet/stole with small button covered in matching black taffeta. Straight skirt from natural waistline. Center back zipper with hook & loop. Lined in black organdy(?) with black grosgrain petersham. Designer's label on center back seam: "Christian Dior - New York Inc." Retailer's label on center back seam: "Neiman-Marcus" With accompanying belt, covered in matching black taffeta. Square buckle; 32" x 1-1/4".

The present work is intended to ascertain the most important stylistic developments of one major composer, Binchois, and several lesser composers: Grenon, Fontaine, Vide, Joye, Constans, Morton and Hayne. All of these musicians were employed by Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy (1420-1467), when he was one of the richest, most powerful and most respected of all the sovereigns of Europe.

Letter from Thos. L. James to D. W. Kempner discussing current events happening in Sugar Land.