Resource Type

Skirt Ensemble

Ensemble consisting of jacket, blouse, skirt, belt and hat.
Date: 1958
Creator: Galanos, James, 1924-2016
System: The UNT Digital Library

Ensemble - Dress and Coat

(At Left) Evening ensemble of brown silk shantung. The camisole is sleeveless, with a boat neckline. Center back closure with 10 small circular buttons covered with matching fabric. The blouse is lined in dark brown silk, and has an inner structure of net and metal boning. The understructure extends below the top to give structure to the skirt. The inner net and boning layer has a center back closure of 14 hook-and-eyes, matching along same line as outer closure. The skirt is of matching materials, A-line, below-the-knee length. It has a 2" waistband decorated with horizontal ruching. Center-back zipper closure with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. The skirt has an attached black rayon gorgette underslip, and an attached black nylon petticoat. The petticoat has a horsehair braid incorporated in the hem for stiffening. The matching swing coat is calf length, with a rolled collar and short sleeves. It is constructed with several layers of organza for structure and a tuck panel around the coat for decoration and flounce. Lined in brown silk. There are no labels in the garment. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - …
Date: 1955
Creator: Dior, Christian
System: The UNT Digital Library

Dinner Gown

Dinner gown of red velvet. The full-length dress is of deep red velvet, embroidered in black to form an all-over pattern of "fish scales". Neckline is rounded, higher in front than back, and has full-length sleeves with a modified leg-of-mutton effect at the shoulders and zipper closures at wrists. The bodice is seamed, and has a natural waistline. The neckline, waistline, and upper part of sleeves/shoulders are edged in black cording/braid. Skirt is slightly gathered into the waistline braid. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye closure at neck. Small panel lining front of bodice at bust, the rest of the gown unlined. No label sewn in garment, but retains original paper tag: obverse: "Vera Maxwell / Original"; reverse: "Vera Maxwell / Original / Fibre Content / 100% Wool / Style 121 / Size [blank] / Mat. [blank] / Account No. [blank]". This gown is one of the "Dance Hall Girl" dresses from Ms. Maxwell's Southwest American Collection.
Date: 1966
Creator: Maxwell, Vera
System: The UNT Digital Library

Handbag

Handbag. Rectangular silver art deco openwork frame set with tiny marcasites and circular cabochon black stones (onyx?). Bag is of black silk velvet. Handle of black silk velvet with two silver rings set with marcasites. Lined with dusty pink ribbed silk, and containing a small rectangular mirror. Marked on frame: "MD" in a square; Diamond shaped mark with an M over a K; and an illegible shield-shaped punch.
Date: 1920
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Wedding Ensemble

Wedding gown of fine white batiste with various kinds of lace. The full-length gown has a slender silhouette which flares out from the Empire waist downward to the hem. The high neckline has a standing lace collar at throat, an embroidered net section covering lower throat and upper chest, an attached small lace fichu or bertha below that, and attached lace simulated shawl collar "lapels" running from the waist at back, up and over the shoulders, to the waist at front. The short sleeves are of bands and tiers of lace, with a satin band and tightly pleated/ruched rosette on each sleeve near cuff. At waist is a wide satin band with larger pleated/ruched satin rosette in front and back. The main body of the skirt has a vertical inset lace panel at front and back which runs from waist to about knee-height. The lower part of the skirt is made of inset horizontal bands of various types of lace Dress has a center back opening with a series of 28 hook-and-eyes, four hook-and-eyes for satin band at waist, and 3 hook-and-eyes for inner waistband. Not shown are accompanying half slip edged with lace and elbow-length kidskin leather gloves size …
Date: 1908
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Dress

Day dress of black silk taffeta. The dress, in the style of the Aesthetic or Reform Movement, is full-length, with a slender silhouette. The front and back of the bodice is styled of tiny vertical knife-pleats, which gather into the rounded neckline. The side panels of the bodice are plain, and there is a line of 14 snaps along the left side forming the closure. The long sleeves are smooth, with slight pleating at the padded shoulders, and they taper to the pointed wrists. The sleeves have 5 hidden snaps and a line of 12 domed non-functioning black taffeta covered buttons on each sleeve. Bodice and skirt are divided by a thin black band. Skirt is fully pleated with tiny vertical knife-pleats. Bodice is lined with thin black crepe. Label sewn inside at back below neckline: "Harbison / Vandervoort's St Louis" Not shown is the accompanying cummerbund of black taffeta, the waistband of large horizontal pleats with a large fan/bow at back with wide, trailing ribbons. (43" from waist to lowest point of ribbons)
Date: 1902
Creator: Harbison, Samuel
System: The UNT Digital Library

Dinner Dress

Dinner dress and jacket ensemble of black wool; (a) Jacket: Short princess line black wool jacket; V-neckline with wide notched collar and wide lapels; full-length, set in, two piece sleeves; asymmetrical lapped front opening with one large, round, filligreed button with rhinestones and bound buttonhole; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. (b) Dress: Matching sleeveless knee length dress with V-neckline in front due to surplice styled opening; fronts secure with four snaps and four hook&eyes; seam detail around bust; back neckline is square between straps; waistline seam with skirt gathering all around; lapped center-front opening in skirt with single hook&eye and two snaps; folded hem; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside on lining at right side seam. Size 12 BALENCIAGA, Paris
Date: 1960/1969
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristobal, 1895-1972
System: The UNT Digital Library

Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Ensemble of oatmeal colored wool tweed: a) Jacket of beige and black wool tweed with V-neckline with standard notched collar and wide lapels; short, princess seams; 3/4 length, set in, two piece sleeves; double breasted opening with four round, plastic, beige buttons and two bound buttonholes supplemented by single large covered snap inside lap at waist; fully lined in beige silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. b) Dress of same; sleeveless; falling just below the knee; deep rounded neckline; empire waist seam; straight skirt has slight gathers in front; left side underarm zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure; folded hem; armhole and neck facings; brassiere strap keepers snap inside shoulders; unlined.
Date: 1964
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristobal, 1895-1972
System: The UNT Digital Library

Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Ensemble. A) Brown sheath dress of lace with floral motif, heavily hand beaded with tiny brown beads. Mid-length, scooped neckline, deeper in back. Sleeveless, with narrow straps. Slightly shaped hem. Inner brown satin lining sheath. Design house's label inside: "Mingolini Gugenheim / Piazza di Spagna 9-91- Roma" B) Brown sheer organza coat, mid-length, shawl collar, center front opening fastened by belt. mid-length sleeves. Leather belt built into waistline, covered with organza, the hook buckles covered in brown beading as dress.
Date: 1959
Creator: Mingolini Gugenheim
System: The UNT Digital Library

Dress

Dress of brown/beige coffee-colored wool.
Date: 1969
Creator: Armand, Jean-Marie
System: The UNT Digital Library

Ensemble

Bright red/orange wool dress and coat ensemble.
Date: 1967
Creator: Armand, Jean-Marie
System: The UNT Digital Library

Fan

Folding fan with intricately carved and decorated tortoiseshell guards and sticks. Leaf of stiffened off-white organdy, heavily embroidered with steel paillettes and gold sequins. Embroidered and sequined peacock feathers applied to ends of alternating sticks. Pivot-point at end set on each side with blue stone.
Date: 187X
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Fan

Folding fan made of thin polished wood or bamboo guards lacquered a dark mahogany and dyed purple. Paper leaf with hand-painted abstract design of flowers and foliage on a reddish ground. Metal bail. Reverse is unadorned. No visible labels or marks.
Date: 1900/1950
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Fan

Folding fan. Guards and sticks of lightly carved ivory (bone?) with scrolling foliate designs. The leaf is of white lace. Sticks are unadorned on the reverse. No visible labels, marks or signatures. Fan has alternately been identified as Irish lace or machine-made lace, and dated 1830's or 1880-1899.
Date: 1880/1899
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Mourning Fan

Folding mourning fan. Guards and sticks of plain black wood, shaped but not adorned. The leaf is of plain black cloth. No visible labels, marks or signatures.
Date: 1900/1925
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Fan

Folding fan of cockade type. Red metal handle embossed with birds and flowering vines. The pleated paper fans forms a full circle. One side printed with a scene of a long-tailed bird (Phoenix?) sitting amid flowering branches with gold background. Reverse is printed with a scene of two birds flying over flowering branches. Marked in metal of handle: "Midget Fan / No. 104" and "Made in Hong Kong".
Date: 195X
Creator: unknown
System: The UNT Digital Library

Ensemble - Coat Dress and Skirt

Ensemble consisting of a charcoal gray wool tweed coat dress and skirt. A) Street dress of charcoal gray wool tweed. Center front opening with eight large, circular, black plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Three quarter raglan sleeves. Turndown collar. Yoked shoulders slightly gathered in back. Below knee length. Lined in black silk faille. Retailer's label at inside back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Skirt with waist panel of black silk and lower panel of charcoal gray wool tweed. Skirt is slightly gathered where waist panel meets lower panel. Overall effect is of a straight skirt. Center back opening with two hook & eyes on waistband as closure. Lower portion of skirt is lined in same black silk as waist panel. Retailer's label on inside center back seam of lining: "Neiman-Marcus"
Date: 1958
Creator: Norell, Norman, 1900-1972
System: The UNT Digital Library

Dress

Dress of light weight black wool crepe in shift style. High round neck; sleeveless. Street length. Center front opening to hem with 8 large round buttons of heavy silk threads. Slight fullness achieved by gathering from shoulder yoke. Unlined except at yoke. Combined designer/retailer label at center back seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Date: 1957
Creator: Norell, Norman, 1900-1972
System: The UNT Digital Library

Cocktail Dress

Cocktail dress of black wool jersey knit. The late-day dress is of mid-length, with bateau (boat) neckline and short sleeves. Center back zipper with hook & eye at neckline. The fitted torso has a natural waistline with a fitted yoke from natural waist to full hip. Pleated/gathered skirt of black tissue faille begins below yoke and flares to hem. Around the waist is an attached wide faille sash which ties in front forming a bow with trailing ribbons. The bodice of the dress is lined in black and the skirt has a heavy fabric underskirt and two attached layers of net crinoline. Joint designer's and retailer's label sewn inside skirt: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell".
Date: 1954
Creator: Norell, Norman, 1900-1972
System: The UNT Digital Library

Evening Gown

Evening gown of tobacco brown floral embroidered tulle embellished with sequins. Tulip or "mermaid" style full-length gown has spaghetti straps trimmed in single row of sequins and structured bodice. Empire waist. Center back zipper. Silk lining/attached slip. Cream grosgrain ribbon petersham at empire waist with two hook & eye closures. Stiffened at hem with matching tulle netting and horizontal bands of horsehair. Single label in gown with retailer and designer: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell", with "Dallas" in lower case.
Date: 1950/1955
Creator: Norell, Norman, 1900-1972
System: The UNT Digital Library

Ensemble - Dress, Bodice, and Stole

Ensemble of wine red linen, consisting of: A) Dress of wine red linen. Jumper-style, the seamed bodice has a wide, rounded neckline and is sleeveless. The skirt gathers slightly into the waist, which dips slightly to hips. Two slit pockets at side skirt seams just below waist. Center back opening, with 5 large circular wine red plastic buttons, a hook-and-eye at waist, two hidden snaps at neckline, and two hidden snaps below waist. Fully lined in red silk. Designer's label: "Norman Norell / New York" B) Under-bodice of wine red silk and wine red linen. Cropped bodice of silk with low, rounded neckline, and center front opening with 5 hook-and-eyes. Short sleeves of wine red linen to match dress. No labels in under-bodice. C) Stole of matching fabric. 50" x 12" rectangle, formed as a tube. No labels in shawl. Size 10 or 12. Note: Outer dress can be worn with or without under-bodice, giving the dress the appearance of being either sleeved or sleeveless.
Date: 1960
Creator: Norell, Norman, 1900-1972
System: The UNT Digital Library

Evening Gown

Evening gown of silk in light purple floral print against a forest green background. Printed chiffon evening gown in olive greens, brown and lavender. Deep decollete front and back. Fabric looped up on left side for irregular silhouette. Right shoulder covered with gathered chiffon which hangs down to form a long train. Right side zipper. Neckline trim of dark green velvet with bronze braid and sequins. Lined in pink organza and trimmed at hem with matching metallic bronze braid and sequins.
Date: 1963
Creator: Etches, Matilda
System: The UNT Digital Library

Suit

Late day three-piece suit of black velvet. a) Jacket in modified bolero style with squared bottom corners. Long sleeves with 5" wide cuffs of heavy, white, open cut lace. Lined in cream satin. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" b) Blouse of white linen. Sleeveless. Collar of 6-1/2" wide lace matching cuffs of jacket. Tie of black ribbed silk attaches to collar with hook & loops. Center front opening with 5 small, circular white pearl buttons and tailored buttonholes reinforced with a snap at the neckline and a hook & eye at the waistline. Half-inch pin tucked front. c) Skirt of black velvet. Slight A-line with a 4" purple silk satin cummerbund waistband. Waistband is reinforced with boning and black grosgrain petersham. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in black silk crepe.
Date: 1941/1949
Creator: Norell, Norman, 1900-1972
System: The UNT Digital Library

Day Dress

Day dress of red ribbed wool. Squared neckline; 3/4 length sleeves. Set-in waistline with attached 1-1/2" wraparound belt that closes in back with 2 hook & eyes and a snap. Below knee length. Center front opening with 7 hook & eyes on waistband and 7 red, circular, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes below waistband. Lined in red silk; bodice lining is sleeveless with center front zipper closure. Designer's label at right seam of bodice lining: "Automne-Hiver 1953 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped on designer's label: "36416" Style number label under designer's label, illegible: "--6--4"
Date: 1953
Creator: Dior, Christian
System: The UNT Digital Library